Imagining the enigmatic faces of Nemrut Dağı who stare into eternity from an altitude of more than 2000m, I wonder if they might know about fake online Turkish travel agencies.* Would they, at least once in a while, blink their eyes? I bet they do. Although clearly not because of internet fraud. About 100 km from the Syrian border, there are other worries to keep them vigilant. Somewhat further near Şanlıurfa is Göbekli Tepe. Having read Steven Mithen’s seminal book After the Ice, a compromise didn’t seem possible anymore. Visiting the oldest stone temple of humanity was no less than a mental urge. Alas, after our visit to Catalhöyük, we realized that an additional 400km detour to Batumi might not be such a good idea after all. Keeping in mind the still unreliable situation close to the Syrian border just north of the former ISIS capital Ar Raqqa. So, yes, why not visit Göreme, one of Turkey’s touristic highlights instead?
Astonishing rock formations near Göreme
Göreme is a natural spot able to speak aloud in its silence with cores of fascinating upright standing rocks. Which, in fact, they are not. The rocks are the remains of an original stone soil that has been completely eroded by water and wind. Throughout history people have left impressive traces in these rocks, from hiding places connected by underground corridors, to graves and complete Byzantine churches. Many companies offer balloon flights over this intriguing part of Cappadocia, for the more spectacle oriented tourists. I can’t help but admit that such an endeavour promises impressive views on the landscape, especially at sunset. Of course, locals who don’t own balloons, want to earn themselves a living as well. What about renting out herds of quad bikes to tourists? A genius idea. And yes, apparently many tourists are overwhelmed by an urge they’ve never experienced before: driving a quad bike through one of the strangest landscapes on earth. Fortunately the giant stones of Cappadocia are deaf as a doornail.
We aren’t, however. The regular passing of strings of 10 to 15 quad bikes, driven by clearly inexperienced riders and led by a guide on steroids, looks a little bit silly. While these growling snakes on wheels pass by, we wonder if their drivers are enjoying the landscape or rather making a great effort to stay in the saddle whilst searching for the right gear.
Turning our heads away from this fake spectacle unavoidably reveals another astonishing aspect of Göreme’s barren landscape. Specimens of the new rich Chinese upper class show their immeasurable wealth during professionally organized honeymoon photo and video shoots while driving too big to fail American oldtimers up the stony hills. The photo and video crew hanging around would not look out of place on a Tarantino set. The brides shine as hard as the cars. They enjoy the feeling of being the centre of the world and take sensual poses on the bonnet of the tinplate bodies. Dusty vanity fair.
Chinese bride during photo shoot with American car in Turkish landscape
We decide to go in search of some less accessible spots in order to flee this theatre of abundance. And yes, the area around Göreme is truly stunning and beautiful. Gaping entrances carved far too high in this natural quarry make us curious about the rooms and corridors that are hidden there. Green covered passages between rocks lead to astonishing panoramas. We take our time and enjoy searching our way through the labyrinth.
Back at the car again, the wheeled snakes are gone. At a distance, the old red Chevrolet has been replaced by a blue Mercedes cabriolet with white trimmed tyres, carrying another freshly married Chinese spouse.
* See my post Travels in the mind: La chûte d’Icare