Whilst corona increasingly limits our travel possibilities, we opt for a two week trip to France. We leave without a clear destination and quickly get in the mood, traveling through the Belgian Ardennes. Belgium is such a tiny country that it doesn’t require much effort to find yourself abroad. For a Belgian living in Flanders, part of the so-called Low Countries, any serious trip starts as soon as one passes the valley of the river Meuse. Suddenly the landscape becomes wide and hilly. To us, people living the flat life, a hilly landscape is the first aspect that contributes to the feeling of really being on the road.
The unkind virus is a grateful alibi to avoid passing through towns and villages as much as possible. To summarize, we travel the way we are used to, in search of solitude or at least the elusive illusion of being alone in nature.
Escaped… in France. Hiking trail near Goncourt
We cross the border to France just like any virus or bacteria would do: without hesitation, without asking permission nor experiencing any physical resistance. Yes, we feel free and happy that we have changed the compulsory quarantine at home with a deliberate one in and around our camper. We are packed with enough supplies to survive the next two weeks or so, without the need to visit a grocery shop except maybe a bakery once in a while. In, say, Kazakhstan, one experiences the need to be autonomous for several days, but in France one can practice the art of overlanding while creating the need for autonomy on a voluntary basis.
Having left without a special goal or focus, the journey’s theme soon reveals itself as we stumble upon the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre of Grand, a small village in the Meuse region. As we are especially interested in the archaeology of antiquity and prehistory, we soon and unconsciously accept it as the theme of our journey. Which sounds, what dramaturgy, which languages and what music ever resounded here? By reading the stones much of the architecture and context can be reconstructed. But sound vibrations leave no trace, and the old walls only reflect the vibrations of the people present at this particular moment. Although fully aware that the sounds of the past are lost forever, I imagine hearing a strange mix of Latin and Celtic. I fancy hearing a murmur that shows some peculiarities of what would later become French.
The music of language evolving over time
Being aware again of the connection between our past and present and the cultural roots we share with so many people all over Europe, we let our route unfold by itself as a result of the careful interpretation of the road map, intuition and coincidence. In the days to come we visit the remains of several Gallo-Roman villas, prehistoric dolmen and menhirs, fragmented remains of Gallo-Roman highways, finally reaching the awe-inspiring site of Bibracte in southern Morvan.
In the previous week our physical condition has substantially improved as a result of several hikes through the woods of Haute-Marne and Burgundy. The 7km walk along the remains of the ancient Gallic wall around the oppidum of Bibracte appears to be a piece of cake.
Bibracte was the residence of the famous Gallo-Roman leader Vercingetorix. It’s here that Julius Caesar started writing his famous tale De Bello Gallico. It’s in Bibracte that he was impressed by the architecture, the skills and the knowledge of the local people.
Pitch for the night, hidden in the woods
Overlanding isn’t about driving a 4×4 on dirt roads alone. It’s the combination of highways, country roads, dirt roads, wild camping, being obliged to choose a campsite because you’ve been chased away by a local from that beautiful remote spot you finally found to spend the night. It’s about navigating, failing to navigate, unexpected encounters with people and phenomena, nature, culture, avoiding an infection with corona and returning safely back home again. Indeed, all of this is possible just around the corner.
Overlander’s tip: Archaeological site of Bibracte on Mont Beuvray
Bibracte is a child-friendly top destination for anyone interested in antiquity. Enjoy the natural environment of beautiful Morvan, the ancient remains and stunning views on top of Mont Beuvray. Don’t forget to visit the museum about Celtic and Gallo-Roman culture.